PSS (Packless Sealing System) Shaft Seal

PSS (Packless Sealing System) Shaft Seal from PYI Inc. This does not drip, and requires little or no maintenance or adjustment.

A possible downside is that if the packing in a stuffing box starts to fail, you simply get an increased drip rate. If a PSS fails, it usually does so with a very substantial inflow that is difficult to stop, and that your bilge pump may even have difficulty keeping up with.

Written by Liam Fitzgerald

Your Own Collapsible Lazy Jax

Here is an outline of the design of a collapsible lazy jax which Richard Gegenwarth is putting on his Aloha 8.2 #139 Dulcinea. Except that the total length of line required would change, the same arrangement could be applied to any model of Aloha.

Mount a cheek block (e.g. Ronstan 30151) on the mast below the spreaders on port and starboard.

A cleat (e.g. Ronstan RF5106 combination fairlead/V-cleat) is needed at a convenient spot on the lower section of the mast, again port and starboard.

There are three eye straps (e.g. RF134) on the bottom of the boom in front of the vang (D), in front of the mainsheet (C) and half way in between (A).

The length of Line#1 is twice the distance from (A) to (F) to (C). Thus when pulled forward, those lines lie along the boom. That line is connected to eye strap (C) at its mid-point with a simple loop.

You need two of Line#2 (one port, one starboard) of length equal to (F) to cheek block and back to the cleat. Line#2 has a stainless steel thimble on one end and a stopper knot on the other end.

The length of Line#3 is twice the distance from ( D) to (F). It is connected to the eye strap (D) at mid-point by a simple loop. There is a 1″ x ¼” stainless steel ring on each end attached to the line with a stainless steel thimble.

To set up – attach Line#3 at it’s mid-point to eye strap (D) – attach Line#2s over cheek blocks to the cleats (port and starboard) – attach Line#1 at it’s mid-point to eye-strap (C) – now thread Line#1 through the port Line#2 thimble (B) and port Line#3 stainless ring (E) and attach to eye strap (A), then do the same on the starboard side.

When you pull on the two Line#2s to raise the structure you will have a problem with the rings – they fall down. Hence “Jamstoppers” (they look like split balls that get screwed together) need to be attached at an appropriate spot on Line#1 to port and starboard.

One last thing. To collapse the structure, release the lines on the mast and pull the rings forward. Then attach the rings and thimble to the mast using a piece of shock cord with plastic hooks or whatever works for you. The shock cord can be attached to the mast with an eye strap for example.

I figured that I needed about 90 ft of 1/4inch line so I bought about 110feet. Total cost was about $70 with most of the gear purchased through SailNet.

Written by Richard Gegenwarth

Aloha Cabin Side Logo

Many Alohas came with the name displayed on the cabin side. If yours either didn’t, or they have faded or worn away, we can help provide you with replacements.

This photo shows the transfers I had made for “Bliss”, based on a tracing which Dennis Clarke kindly provided from the original transfers on his 28, which he replaced a while ago.

Get some made!

To get these made, I created a Corel Draw file with an image the exact size (approx 21cm x 7.5 cm) of the originals. Many sign makers can use a Corel file as a starting point to import the logo into their own software, although they usually spend some time “cleaning up” the edges to produce the best result. The sign-maker I used charged CDN $35 to tidy up the artwork and CDN $20 for 4 logos themselves, plus tax.

If you want to approach a sign-maker local to you, then download either the  gif file by clicking here

Written by Keith Denham