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 1 
 on: August 12, 2017, 01:21:17 PM 
Started by Peter V - Last post by Holdech
One of our water tanks was leaking last season. I removed it (with great difficulty) and had an aluminum plate welded over the entire corroded area. No need to cut out the old metal. Most of the tank was fine except for a few places on the bottom. Fixed permanently for about $75.
I originally looked for a plastic tank but never found one that fit properly for a decent price. Ronco plastics does have tanks for just about every boat ever produced but they are expensive and have to be shipped up from the US.

We cruise for several weeks at a time so carrying a ton of bottled water doesn't make sense. We cleaned the tanks, replaced the fill hoses, vent hoses and outlet hoses plus added a filter on the tank outlet (standard RV filter). We also use an RV filter on the end of our fill hose. Been using this for three seasons and you can't tell the tank water from bottled water. The filters remove all chlorine, plastic and other tastes and odors. For the off season we suck the tanks and lines dry with a wet/dry shop vac.

We also plan to add a cockpit shower. Check out the Whale "twist deck shower". It only needs a small hole instead of the huge opening like the "box style" units require: http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10014&Product_ID=10031&FriendlyID=Whale-Twist-Deck-Shower

hris

 2 
 on: August 11, 2017, 10:14:17 AM 
Started by Peter V - Last post by Peter V
 Hi Salty I forgot to mention the tank is Alluminum. My son can weld Alu but he said with the corrosion around the holes he would have to cut out a bigger piece then weld. So I'll try JB weld for water tanks. Again it would be a temp fix.

 Other options are cut out and weld it properly or get a different type of tank. Still thinking about it.

 3 
 on: August 09, 2017, 02:48:39 PM 
Started by Peter V - Last post by Sawlty Dawg
Nice!

What's the water tank made out of? You can get plastic welded though not sure who by.

Sawlty

 4 
 on: August 09, 2017, 01:07:30 AM 
Started by Peter V - Last post by Peter V
 Hello Patti and I are the proud new owners of an Aloha 30. Sail # 26 formerly named Non Sequitur, ( old name suites Patti perfectly  Grin) to be changed to " Mahalo".
  This boat was bought in Ottawa at BYC  ( on the hard) and was simply launched and driven the 3 km across the river to our club Nepean Sailing Club. We are a few slips away from a sister ship sail # 28 ( Gilles boat) and it is awesome to compare notes on boats.
 I have been a member at NSC off and on since 1983 and have had a few keel boats and an Albacore ( Mirage 24 & C&C 29 mk1 ) there. I did a bit of racing and may race this boat as well. ( scheduled to race this Thursday Aug 11/17) and hoping Gilles can join us.
  So far we have only sailed her twice and it went well. Most of my time has been very busy cleaning her up and getting her ready.
 All in all she is a great boat but as all new owners do, everything needs to be questioned and looked at, tuned and fixed if needed.
 Boat has an emurgency tiller.
 Boat has an em crank arm to start the motor ( although this arm is too long to actually start the motor so it will be modified.
 150 Genoa is 3 years old
  100 jib looks like it was rarely used
  Main sail looks original but good as it was rarely used.
 She also has a lot of original rigging/tuning and documentation on board.
 - Cleaning Cleaning and more Cleaning.
 - two new batteries needed and replaced.
 - Fixing leaky water tank. JB weld possibly? as we don't drink directly out of holding tanks.
 - Fixing leaky head Fausett. ??
 - Temporarally plunged an old screw hole size leak in bilge. ( planning on redoing the bottom myself and then this will get properly fixed). 
 - boat needs new coushions thourghout. Patti is looking after this task.
 Once the water tank and Fausett is fixed it will be interesting to see how and if the hot water heater works. Would like to put an external shower kit on the transom if the HWT works.
 - not sure how the previous owner ever reefed the main as the two ref lines are way too short. So this is another task. By looking at the main sail he rarely if ever used it. Great shape for an old sail.
 -Will be redoing the bottom. Interprotect 2000 and VCT17.
 
  That's it for now.
 

 5 
 on: August 08, 2017, 09:41:44 PM 
Started by Holdech - Last post by Holdech
I discussed the "no heat" issue with a mechanic friend last week and he had some diagnostic advice. Can you borrow or buy a non-contact infrared thermometer? Check the temp of the hoses at the inlet and outlet of the heater after a half hour of engine running. They should be essentially the same temperature. If both are cold you have a no-flow issue. If the outlet is hot but 25 or more degrees lower than the inlet then it's a low-flow issue. Low-flow can be from trapped air and he usually just pulls the outlet hose with the engine running (cold engine right after starting) until coolant starts to flow. He then slips the hose back on, stops the engiine, tightens tightens the hose clamps and tops up the coolant.

Also note that the coolant temperature on some engines is less than the main engine coolant temperature. On our Yanmar 3GM30F the heater coolant temp is never over 125 degrees. This is by design and does not reflect the actual engine temperature. The first time I used an infrared thermometer onthe heater hoses I thought the thermostat was shot...

Hope this helps.

Chris

 6 
 on: August 08, 2017, 10:19:54 AM 
Started by Holdech - Last post by Jeff.
I've been thinking about this one.
My first thought is kinked hoses, which I'm sure you already check.
Second would be low coolant. Ditto.
Third I though of the flow controller at the end of the manifold. This is the cast piece with two ports on the side for the parallel heater loop. The idea is that the 'controller' will allow full coolant flow within the engine while sending a portion off to the water heater.
I don't know how the unit operates or if it has any moving parts but perhaps that's the source of the problem. Either that or there is a restriction and it's holding off on diverting coolant to keep the engine cool.
Hope that's somewhat clear.
Jeff

 7 
 on: July 30, 2017, 09:03:05 AM 
Started by Holdech - Last post by cverra
We replaced our water heater about three years ago. Just got it hooked up and cannot get the engine to heat water. After two hours of motoring the water is just a tiny bit warm......what to do?

 8 
 on: July 30, 2017, 09:00:14 AM 
Started by SailorGuy - Last post by cverra
Did this very thing to my rudder stock about three years ago. Worked great. One thing we noticed when disassembling was that the old upper bushing was only screwed in place. We drilled and through bolted it with backing plate for a more solid install. Smooth as silk now. Another tip, when you have let the epoxy/graphite mixture harden in the tube, remove rudder stock and carefully hone out a tiny bit of material using a drum and fine sandpaper on a drill. When you re-install you can put "lip balm".....yeah, the stuff in the little twist tube you buy at a convenience store, to lubricate. Works great. Three years of regular use and she still is as solid as she was day one.

 9 
 on: July 22, 2017, 11:45:32 PM 
Started by Amir - Last post by bluenoser
I have found really good deals at http://www.minneysyachtsurplus.com/ in the past.
Check weekly...the inventory list changes often.

 10 
 on: July 22, 2017, 11:42:00 PM 
Started by bluenoser - Last post by bluenoser
Is enjoying its' 16th year aboard Whisper!

I bought the boat in 2005 and this Mastercraft battery was in her then.
I alternate my batteries through house and engine year to year and have replaced the other battery twice.
I popped the caps and added a thimble of distilled water to each cell for the first time ever.
When I was preparing to install it this year, I noticed the sticker on the side of the battery - 2001.

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